Sunday, April 28, 2013

End of trail at Chorgalia (Unknown Kumoun 13)

Unknown Kumon

Nanakmatta Sahib (Unknown Kumoun: 1)
Tanakpur (Unknown Kumoun: 2)
Chalthi and Champawat (Unknown Kumoun 3)
Lohaghat and Advaita Ashram (Unknown Kumoun 4)
Pithoragarh (Unknown Kumoun 5)
Jhulaghat on the India-Nepal border (Unknown Kumoun 6)
Baitadi Nepal (Unknown Kumoun 7)
Dharchula (Unknown Kumoun 8)
Ritha Sahib Gurudwara (Unknown Kumoun 9)
Basantpur village (Unknown Kumoun 10)
Last village on the mountains (Unknown Kumoun 11)
Most dangerous Nandour valley (Unknown Kumoun 12)
End of trail at Chorgalia (Unknown Kumoun 13)
I thank the man for saving my life. He notices that my backpack is front has a nail slash on the outer lining. I find teeth holes on the top where he tried to maul me at the neck.
This man is a Gujjar and going to his camp where they have cattle. We walk together for 3 kilometers and he splits and takes a trail going on the hill. He tells me that now it is straight forward trail that crosses the river after 3 kilometers and there I will see the road to Chorgalia. He says that on the road I may find some transportation. So my misery will come to end after crossing the river. Man tells that it is the same river that is barraged near Nanakmatta.

End of Nandhour Valley


My shivering is gone now and I am feeling hot whereas I am drenching with water. My backpack is still dripping and I take off my socks to release my feet and now I am unable to fill my very hot and inflamed feet back in the shoes. With my Swiss knife I cut my shoes to insert my feet.

Most dangerous Nandour valley (Unknown Kumoun 12)

Unknown Kumon

Nanakmatta Sahib (Unknown Kumoun: 1)
Tanakpur (Unknown Kumoun: 2)
Chalthi and Champawat (Unknown Kumoun 3)
Lohaghat and Advaita Ashram (Unknown Kumoun 4)
Pithoragarh (Unknown Kumoun 5)
Jhulaghat on the India-Nepal border (Unknown Kumoun 6)
Baitadi Nepal (Unknown Kumoun 7)
Dharchula (Unknown Kumoun 8)
Ritha Sahib Gurudwara (Unknown Kumoun 9)
Basantpur village (Unknown Kumoun 10)
Last village on the mountains (Unknown Kumoun 11)
Most dangerous Nandour valley (Unknown Kumoun 12)
End of trail at Chorgalia (Unknown Kumoun 13)
I wake up in the morning and drink a cup of tea at tea shop that is already open. No other customer is here so no parothas are being made so I ask for omelet with buns. I am told that Gujjars are camping in the closing of the Nandour valley and they will give me food. Total walk is about 40 kilometers to the roadhead. 6 km on the trail where I will sight a pond, then 6 km to the pond, 6 km to the down then 12 km in the Nandour Valley till road head. Everybody has recommended me to stay with Gujjars in their barricade and as a tradition they provide food and bed to the stranded travelers.
I again have a strong temptation to pay a visit to my little best friend Rishi. He is so poor and also so happy and I want him to stay happy forever. I want to do something for him, want to give him a good life, or if possible to adopt him anyway. He has severe eczema on his head and want to take him to some medical doctor. His father worked in a restaurant in Chandigarh but then he got hurt and now he is incapable to earn. His mother works in the farms whenever she is required but not much farming in this area and everybody is dependent upon rains. Anyway – I have no time to attend anything. My project for today is walk 40 kilometers and reach at the road and then catch some transportation to Delhi. Tomorrow evening I have to catch the flight to Newark NJ USA.

Village in the mountains


I visit Masterji in his one room home to say thanks and goodbye. He gives me a list that he prepared in the candle light at night about all the problems of this little village. He has great hope on me. I don’t know what to do with that list. Later on I wrote a letter to Masterji from USA explaining him that I was just a traveler, nothing special. I made several copies of that list and mailed it to many famous leader and ministers. Could be a hit or miss – most probably a miss. Fortunes don not change that easy.
I begin my walk as I have to cross the last mountain ridge of my trail. I keep walking and keep walking in the dry outer mountains. I get thirsty but there is no water. Then luckily I find a grove of pine trees and find a water pond, water is not so good but I drink it anyway. Then I walk another 4-5 kilometers and realize that I am lost. I have walked more than 6 kilometers and haven’t seen a bifurcate. Or may be their 6 kilometers are my 12 so I keep walking and keep walking in the dense pine jungle.

Last of the villages
I am alarmed when the path begins to descend or may be for a while so I keep walking but it is descending for the next 3 kilometers. Now it is definite that I am lost. Well not really lost, way to return back to the village is straight forward and I can get back but I lost the valuable time. I am suppose to arrive in Durga Pipal at noon. I lost two good hours at wrong path and it will cost me another good two hours to return. Then I don’t know where I missed the trail split. I haven’t see a single person on this trail for 15 kilometers.

Last of the villages
Heavyhearted I make my return on the same way. I keep walking till that general area comes where I felt in the beginning that I was lost. I find a trail leading to the mountain so take it. It is now 1 PM and I am hungry. On the mountain ridge I see a pond below, so I found the way but lost 2 precious hours and lots of energy. I keep walking down towards pond and I am dead thirsty. Only one home is visible off the trek and I take the path and go in that home.

Village in the mountains
I hear someone crying in there and I enter inside, a very frail old man is lying on the bed completely soaked with his own vomits. He cannot even speak properly and I ask him water and in turn he asks me water. I look around in the house and in the kitchen and do not find even a single drop of water. Probably all other members of the home are gone out to their farms. I am not in any situation to do anything for the old man and probably he is going to die. I come out and shout in all directions to find someone but none replies.

Last of the villages
I leave all my medicines next to the old man. I want to give him ciprofloxine but there is not a single drop of water. I try to find sugar or gur to give it to old man but only a fistful of daal and a fistful of rice are there in a glass bottle. Probably there people are depressingly poor. I see a bare kitchen with only 3-4 bent aluminum pots and torn rags of the clothes. Nearest water is 3 kilometers away at the pond. I clean the old man and pray god that all goes well. Old man sees me leaving and he starts crying again but I cannot help him anymore or I have to find water and food for him. I put some money under his pillow and walk out.

Last of the villages
I reach at the pond in one hour. I find only two people there, one girl about the age of 7 years with some goats and a boy about 12. Water in the pond is not drinkable and I ask them for water, they point me to the way going down the cliff, to the valley. It is 4 PM and by all means, I am very late already. I have two choices – either I must return to Old man’s home and share the miseries and they have no food or extra bedding. Or I should take my chance and move on. I ask the boy about the home of old man, boy turns out his grandson. He says they have no money for food or medicines. They scavenge and eat grasses and herbs or drink milk of the two goats. I tell the boy to take water to the old man but he seems indifferent. I give him 20 rupee to take a water bottle to his home, only then he begins finding some bottle.
I ask them about the directions and they point to a path descending in the wood, they say everybody comes and goes through that path. I take this stair like trail that is going down the wall of the mountain. Since the water at the pond was not drinkable so I keep walking on steep trail carved in the wall like the cliff and mountains are utter dry and even trees are stressed due to the lack of the water.
After some descent I find water oozing from the wall of cliff and I drink it up and then resume my descent. Due to constant descent, my toes are hitting the wall of my shoes and I feel intense pain that I cannot help. Each step brings pain and I hope I will find Gujjars in Durga Pipal and spend a night there. Forget reaching Delhi tonight, it ain’t going to happen.

Nandhour Valley
To the amazement more water is oozing from the wall and now trees are green and cliff is grassy and cool. As I walk down droplets of water becomes a tiny waterfall and then this small waterfall becomes a cascade along the path. Path crosses over this cascade several times. Now trees are huge and foliage is dense and ravine is moist and full of birds and bird songs. But I have no time to listen to birds because I am extremely hungry and my feet are paining and I have fever also. I have no jacket because I gave it away at the wedding home.
At a place I sit and open my shoes and find my feet swollen. I have never seen my feet at this size. I have no slippers. Somehow I again insert my feet in the boots and now it is extremely painful.
Amazingly, Dry Mountain turns into a big waterfall and area is shaking with the noise and vibrations. I keep walking down on the steep stair like path and hoping that my miseries will come to the end very soon in Dugra Pipal. My shoes are wet also because several times I had to cross over the water fall. Now suddenly I notice the water fall is now crashing at the other side and area where path is leading me is again dry.

Nandhour Valley
At 5 PM I hit the bottom in the ravine with lots of trees like Pipal etc. Pine trees are gone now and I am in the Himalayan base territory. Several paths crisscross but there is nobody to tell me the directions. I keep walking in the direction of the valley to find the brook that must be made by the waterfall and I find it and then I keep walking along the brook. In three kilometers other brooks are also coming and meeting together and make a small river. Then at a flat area by the river I find a small Gujjar settlement in a dirt perimeter wall but I see nobody there. Place is rampaged by elephants and abandoned. All over I see Elephant poop.

Nandhour Valley
It is 6 PM and I have no choice but to keep walking by the river, whenever I find my path blocked by cliffs, I wade in the river to get to the other side and when that side too is blocked then again I switch sides. River is growing and now water is waist deep and I have to swim in it. As I come out of the river on the flat side, I see elephants and they also see me they make noise and all run to me. I again jump in the river and begin running in frenzy. Rocks hit me on my knees and I keep running, wading in the water to the cliffs. Water makes a whirlpool in the cliffs and it is deep and I am now swimming in the circle. Elephants are still closing up on me with a great noise. My backpack and shoes are now full of water and I am unable to swim and water is pulling me down. I take a deep breadth and let myself go down and luckily I find the bottom not far and I jump at the bottom and luckily come out of the whirlpool. After some more jumps in the deep water I again find myself in waist deep water. Elephants are not interested in me anymore and they walk away from me. At other bend of the river I come out. I feel feverish and take my temperature with the thermometer is about 104F and I keep walking on the bank luckily that is flat now.

Nandhour Valley
There I spot the footprints of a big cat on the wet sands. It must be cheetah or leopard because it cannot be of cat’s. It cannot be a dog because we all know dogs. I keep walking because I have no choice. This is the only flat walk-able area, next to me are the cliffs and then there are cliffs touching the river at the other side. I am physically in worse shape. Flat area is again blocked by the cliffs and now I have to again cross the river to get to the flat area at the other side and this time river is quite large and I doubt if I have strength to cross it over.
I simple want to die here or pass away. I feel intense shivering. I give up crossing the river but try to walk by the river at the cliff side. A large rock is hanging on the way and I have to cross over it. Leopard foot prints are also leading towards the rock. But I have no choice and I brace myself and I find a place to put my foot and I climb over the rock – and here I see a leopard. We see each other at the same time or may be it was seeing me already. It jumps I let go the rock and fall in the water and it lands over me and as my backpack is over my neck, it mauls it and fall over me in the water. As a reflex action, to find some anchor I hug its silky muscled body but it slips away. In the water it separates off from me but I feel its nails are stuck with my backpack and I am also dragged out. Then its paw is released.
Suddenly I hear tin can banging noise and a donkey braying and shouts of a man. I stand up in the waste deep water that is already pushing me and leopard is again about to charge upon me but due to the noise it runs away.
At the other side of the river I see a man with a loaded donkey, he is banging a canister frantically to scare off the leopard. He shouts to me but I am unable to figure out what he is saying. He points me to come to the other side and I wade and swim in the water or rather drag myself and somehow make it to the other side. Then I climb on the hill and over the trees to get to the man. There is a trail that is coming from Dugra Pipal that I missed somehow.
To be continued … just one last post left.
More miseries ahead …..
Más miserias delante ……..
===================================================

Verbascum (Mullain)
HOMŒOPATHIC MATERIA MEDICA
by William BOERICKE, M.D.
Presented by Médi-T
VERBASCUM THAPSUS
Mullein
(VERBASCUM)
Has a pronounced action on the inferior maxillary branch of the fifth pair of the cranial nerves; on the ear; and respiratory tract and bladder. Catarrhs, and colds, with periodical prosopalgia. Quiets nervous, and bronchial, and urinary irritation, and cough.
Face.–Neuralgia affecting zygoma, temporo maxillary joint, and ear (Menyanth), particularly of left side, with lachrymation, coryza, and sensation as if parts were crushed with tongs. Talking, sneezing, and change of temperature aggravate the pains; also, pressing teeth together. Pains seem to come in flashes, excited by least movement, occurring periodically at same hour in morning and afternoon each day.
Ears.–Otalgia, with a sense of obstruction. Deafness. Dry, scaly condition of meatus (use locally).
———————————————
This plant is found all over the Himalayas below 6000 feet.
This is a wonder medicine for ears.
If you find this plant, pluck off some leaves and insert these in a clear glass or plastic bottle and hang the bottle in the sunlight for several days. Its oil will be extracted and deposit at the bottom. Use that oil in the ear and see the magic.

Saturday, April 27, 2013

Last village on the mountains (Unknown Kumoun 11)

Unknown Kumon

Nanakmatta Sahib (Unknown Kumoun: 1)
Tanakpur (Unknown Kumoun: 2)
Chalthi and Champawat (Unknown Kumoun 3)
Lohaghat and Advaita Ashram (Unknown Kumoun 4)
Pithoragarh (Unknown Kumoun 5)
Jhulaghat on the India-Nepal border (Unknown Kumoun 6)
Baitadi Nepal (Unknown Kumoun 7)
Dharchula (Unknown Kumoun 8)
Ritha Sahib Gurudwara (Unknown Kumoun 9)
Basantpur village (Unknown Kumoun 10)
Last village on the mountains (Unknown Kumoun 11)
Most dangerous Nandour valley (Unknown Kumoun 12)
End of trail at Chorgalia (Unknown Kumoun 13)
Sounds of roosters wake me up in the morning. I already walked 6 kilometers so only 16 more to go, and this is a quite manageable distance; twelve kilometers to get to the top and then four to walk down from the pass.
Lala is also awake and doing meditation in front of a small Hanumanji’s picture that he has hung on the wall. I go out and take a walk in the village streets. Kids are preparing for going to school and women are cleaning their homes. Old people are taking out the cows to graze on the mountain. Most homes are old and ancient and made of lime mortar. Most roofs are the tiles carved out of the carved rocks. Almost whole village knows me now because most of the people were present in the wedding. One man Mr. Dina Nath drags me to his home on the second floor and they serve me buttermilk and ask about life in America. Then another man appears and drags me to his home for tea. Then another shows up and asks me for breakfast in their home but somehow I manage to escape the streets of the Basantpur and return back to Dharamshala to pack up. I have a long walk and long climb ahead.
I find Lala is done with his Pooja, he gives me a pathetic smile and I have an amusing idea.
I take out 20 rupee from my pocket and say, “Lala Ji, here are 20 rupee I borrowed from you tomorrow at tea shop.”
Taking the money from my hand he says, “yes yes Yes I know you owed me twenty rupee.”
He puts the money in his pocket.
My amusement cost me twenty rupee.
I bid him goodbye and I walk up to the wedding village and say my final hello to the family and Lala’s sons. They serve me tea and we eat leftover pakodas from the last day as breakfast. To the family of bride, I gift them my light jacket, small ten band radio that I bought form Nepal and whatever I feel I may not be needing it anymore and to lighten myself because I have to climb over 2 passes to get to Haldwani. Day after tomorrow evening I am leaving India for back to New Jersey.

Near Basantpur

Basantpur village (Unknown Kumoun 10)

Unknown Kumon

Nanakmatta Sahib (Unknown Kumoun: 1)
Tanakpur (Unknown Kumoun: 2)
Chalthi and Champawat (Unknown Kumoun 3)
Lohaghat and Advaita Ashram (Unknown Kumoun 4)
Pithoragarh (Unknown Kumoun 5)
Jhulaghat on the India-Nepal border (Unknown Kumoun 6)
Baitadi Nepal (Unknown Kumoun 7)
Dharchula (Unknown Kumoun 8)
Ritha Sahib Gurudwara (Unknown Kumoun 9)
Basantpur village (Unknown Kumoun 10)
Last village on the mountains (Unknown Kumoun 11)
Most dangerous Nandour valley (Unknown Kumoun 12)
End of trail at Chorgalia (Unknown Kumoun 13)
At the morning rain stopped but there was snow over the mountains. We are asked to come in the kitchen for breakfast because it was warm there. While we are eating, Sewadar Balwant Singh asks me about our plan for today, I tell him that we will be leaving. I will be trekking to Haldwani and Lala Pawan will be finding some horse to get to his village. Balwants Singh insists me to carry some food with me for the way but I decline. I will eat whatever I get on the way. It is a two days trek but I will see two or three villages in between. However Lala Pawan asks for food to be carried and Balwant Singh packs him some roties and subzi.

Basantpur area

Ritha Sahib Gurudwara (Unknown Kumoun 9)

Unknown Kumon

Nanakmatta Sahib (Unknown Kumoun: 1)
Tanakpur (Unknown Kumoun: 2)
Chalthi and Champawat (Unknown Kumoun 3)
Lohaghat and Advaita Ashram (Unknown Kumoun 4)
Pithoragarh (Unknown Kumoun 5)
Jhulaghat on the India-Nepal border (Unknown Kumoun 6)
Baitadi Nepal (Unknown Kumoun 7)
Dharchula (Unknown Kumoun 8)
Ritha Sahib Gurudwara (Unknown Kumoun 9)
Basantpur village (Unknown Kumoun 10)
Last village on the mountains (Unknown Kumoun 11)
Most dangerous Nandour valley (Unknown Kumoun 12)
End of trail at Chorgalia (Unknown Kumoun 13)
It is the time to say goodbye to beautiful Dharchula. After a breakfast of parothas, I catch a returning newspaper jeep and arrive back in Lohaghat. Jeep stops at Pithoragarh for tea and I have great temptation to get down and spend another day here. In Lohaghat I feel at home but in Pithoragarh I feel like I am in a different country and I have spent many years in different countries so I love being at home although Pithoragarh is equally beautiful and joyful.

Back to Lohaghat


Jeep driver drives it like a storm and we arrive in Lohaghat at 1 PM. My head is spinning. I collapse at a tea shop and drink a plain soda with lemons to bring my senses back. I walk to my usual hotel and take the room facing Lohawati brook in the deodar woods. I feel normal after 2 hours. I inquire hotel owner about going to Ritha Sahib and he says that one of his trader friend Lala Pawan will be going to his village near Ritha Sahib tomorrow and I can make a program with him. OK with me. But he whispers me to beware of Lala Pawan because he is a very mean man. It is still OK with me. He may be mean but cannot cause any harm to me anyway.
It is about evening and lunch time is over so I walk to the Khan Bazaar on the stairs that goes to all the way up to the next road. Samosas are being made so I make my fill with tea and Samosas. I locate Lala Pawan at his general store. He is a fat and diabetic man. He shakes hands with me and offers me to share the price of the jeep to the Ritha and I agree. He is going to his village that is 4 hours walk from Ritha Sahib.

Back to Lohaghat
I go for my usual walk on the Panchashwar road till I see snowy peaks. Have a cup of tea in the village while watching the peaks and sun setting behind the mountains and return to Lohaghat.
As dark descends views of the illuminated villages are stunning.
Next day I and Lala Pawan take a pre arranged jeep. I am surprised to know the amount of my share because it seems way high whereas I asked others they told me that was suppose to be the full price. Jeep driver reuses to tell me the price he is charging us because he knows Lala and wants to keep his relation with him but I am a total stranger. At the stops Lala asks the driver to take passengers and he collects money from each of them. A stage comes when jeep is deadly full and even driver refuses to accept more passengers. I am squeezed on the seat and I feel my bones may break so I come out of the jeep at a tea stop and sit on its roof and that makes the ride very dangerous but very rewarding. Last night it snowed so way is slippery and jeep skids at some places but luckily driver keeps the control. Lala Pawan has turned his trip to his village into a hefty profit already. I am regretting that I could have fetched any other vehicle for a fraction of the money that it has already cost me.

Way to Ritha Sahib
Jeep travels on the level and scenic road till Dhunaghat from there it makes a spectacular descent to all the way bottom. Although bottom is not visible for half the distance from Dhunaghat but terrain is pine rich and shady. I see many sleepy villages and it all looks a different strange country.
Giani Zail Singh, former president of India was instrumental in getting this road built to the Gurudwara. Road descends and descends to the village Deyuri that is the village below where the Gurudwara is situated at the confluence of the Lodhiya and Ratiya rivers.
Gurudwara itself was constructed in the year 1960. Money to construct Gurudwara was arranged some years before but one famous politician’s two sons Mr. Lovely and Mr. Sweety undertook this project but they invested money in their some other venture to double it for Gurudwara and lost it all. Finally more money was collected and Gurudwara was made.

Way to Ritha Sahib
It is said that Guru Nanak Dev Ji took rest under Reetha (Soapnut) tree. He held much spiritual discussion with the Gorakhpanthi Jogis, who lived here. When Bhai Mardana asked Nanak for food, Nanak asked Bhai Sahib to ask the yogis. Yogis told Mardana to ask your guru if he is such a Spritual Man, he will produce food. Then Nanak asked Bhai Mardana to eat Reetha, a fruit on the tree which are normally bitter in taste but when Bhai Mardana ate Reetha Fruit and he found it was Sweet. The reetha’s were sweet on the side which Nanak was sitting, and bitter on the side on which Yogis were sitting. The yogis got angry and set a snake on tree with the powers. When Nanak looked on the Snake it got frozen.
This seems like a least visited and traveled area and Gurudwara itself is not much visited. Mainstream Sikhs dispute the story about this Gurudwara because story associate with it is not mentioned in the scriptures. Gurudwara location was found by a Sikh trader in 1955 who heard about it from some Gorakpanthi Yogi and walked to this locatin.
Due to its religious background this place is considered as a holy place for Sikhs. The temple of Devnath is also located beside the Gurudwara. These Rithas are sold in the village as Prasad. I taste these rithas but find no difference in this or other rithas. Nobody eats rithas anyway.

Ritha Sahib Gurudwara
I along with Lala Pawan, we get down from the jeep from where the path goes to the Gurudwara. I ask Lala Pawan that he is robbing me by making me pay for the whole price of the jeep and he himself made double the money. Lala Pawan gives me 50 rupee back; I refuse and tell him to gift it to the Gurudwara instead. He laughs and puts the money back in his pocket.
He says, “A deal is a deal, that’s what I told you at the beginning.”
Lala Pawan and I descend to the Gurudwara, it is 1PM. I pay respects at prayer hall. Lala Pawan tells me that he also will be staying at the Gurudwara whereas he told me that he will be taking a horse to his village this same evening because he cannot walk much. Now he wants to stay with me saying that it is too late. Or may be he wants me to pay for his horse ride too because I will be trekking in the same direction tomorrow. Actually he is excited that the room and food is free here in Gurudwara.

Ritha Sahib Gurudwara
I find the manager who is called Babaji by all sewaks. I see only 3 people running the Gurudwara. Babaji is gone to the village and I am assured by the sewaks that we will definitely given a room. They prepare food for us because they already ate their food. Babaji returns and I find him a gentleman of exceptional qualities. He is a very humble and ascetic type person and he is like a founder of this Gurudwara. This Gurudwara is not affiliated with SGPC but run independently by Babaji. These three sewaks I see are all destitute and given shelter by Babaji and they made this Gurudwara their home.
I wanted a room alone but Babaji anticipates that we (I and Lala Ji) are together, he gives us the same room and I don’t argue; may be it’d be a fun to spend some time with this fat and mean Lala Ji.
We unload out belongings and relax; a boy sewadar calls us for food. This boy is a runaway, he says his mother died and his father remarried and his step mother was very cruel to him so he ran away. He hung around Golden Temple for some days then he was told to leave. Somehow he ended up at Nanakmatta Gurudwara. There he met Babaji and he adopted him as his son. Lala Ji orders me to bring his food in the room and I abide.
I eat food in the kitchen by the hearth because it is cold outside, and then take a thali for Lala Ji to our room. Lala Ji eats his food and then tea arrives. After half hour food and tea elevates his blood sugar and he asks me to give him an injection. I say OK. After giving him a dose of insulin I walk to the village. I chat with people. I come to know that they offered a serious opposition when this Gurudwara was being built and tried to sabotage this whole project. It used to be an akada belonging to Guru Goraknath Sect and whole village respected those ascetics. Patrons who built this Gurudwara did everything for this village, they offer their beddings and cooking pots for local weddings for free. Because of the Gurudwara road arrived here and it took some time for the ice to break. This Gurdwara contributes to the local economy because visitors come to this area because of this Gurudwara. Now everybody respects this Gurudwara and the patrons who run it.
This Gurudwara in not ancient, round 1955, some Sikh gentleman who was also a devotee of Gorakhnath came to know about this place from the ascetics living near Nanakmatta who used to walk to the akada here. He visited here and Jogies told him that these Rithas here are sweet because some Nanak Baba made them sweet. This story matched other stories about Nanak. Then this Gurudwara was established in 1960.

Ritha Sahib valley
I walked to the confluence of rivers and tried to cross the small one. Due to the recent snow fall water was stinging cold and somehow I made it across but only worried about how I will return. I kept walking for one kilometer where I found a place where I could cross the river by jumping over the rocks.
When I returned to my room Lala Pawan was crying. I asked why? He told me that his son is getting married to a girl whom he does not like. This girl has no status and belongs to a poor family. Now his son is sitting in the village and is not contributing to run their two big shops in Lohaghat. He is going there to reason it out with him because no phone works in the village. His wife’s niece is getting married in a village near and Lala suspects that his son will also getting married there at the same time.
In the evening a sewak asks me if I can read Punjabi and if I am interested to read Guru Granth Sahib for an hour or so, I happily walk to the prayer hall and read for two hours. As I came out I was told that dinner is ready and they asked us to eat in the kitchen by the fire because it is freezing cold outside.

Leaving Lohaghat
After food, Lala returns to the room and I take a walk in the village.
Before falling to sleep, I hear the miserable stories of Lala Pawan who was always a victim. His father didn’t give him enough money, his mother didn’t give him enough love, and his sisters favor his other gutless brothers who stayed poor. His brothers hate him. Whole Lohaghat is envois of him because he worked hard to build his empire. Government hates him, income tax department hates him. Even the jeep driver who brought us here hates him. Now his son, his own son hates him. His wife is also betraying him by taking side with his son who is marring to a girl who is not bringing any money. Moreover that girl’s father is dead and she is the only girl of his mother. Eventually mother will also come to live with the girl and eat for free.

Leaving Lohaghat
Then he starts telling me about his younger son who is neither interested in studying nor is interested in running the business. He also joined his brother in the village and both are now ganged up. Noukers (servants) are stealing from the both shops like crazy because only Lala is alone to supervise them.
“We are getting emptied and they are getting filled (Noukers),” he says.
He asks me to bring him water so he can take his blood pressure medicine. I bring him water.
He falls into weeping and I fall into sleeping.

Way to Ritha Sahib
I wake up in the middle of night; it is a sound as someone is rubbing two glass bottles, the rattling kind of noise. I wonder what can be it and I stay awake waiting for it to happen again. Then I discover Lala Pawan is grinding his teeth. I doubt if I will be able to sleep here in this room, I love my sleep. I go out and find all rooms unlocked but none has any quilt. It is raining outside. I take my quilt and park myself in other room on the floor mat and fall to sleep.

Helix Hedera / English Ivy / Duckfoot
Helix Hedera (also called English Ivy and duckfoot) is found all over Himalayas
Hedera Helix.
From: http://www.homeoint.org/clarke/h/hed_h.htm
Common Ivy. N. O. Araliaceæ. Tincture of young shoots.
Clinical.─Cataract. Hydrocephalus, chronic. Rhinorrhœa cerebro-spinalis. Rickets.
Characteristics.─Our knowledge of the therapeutic properties of Ivy we owe to Dr. Cooper, whose experience has shown it to have a relation to ricket and rickety conditions. The only published case (H. W., xxxiv. 489) is, that of a girl of twenty, whom he cured of chronic hydrocephalus with a single dose, once repeated after eighteen months on a threatened return of the symptoms. The circumference of the patient’s head, when she was brought to Cooper, was 27 1/2 inches, rendering her an object of wonder and ridicule to street arabs, and reacting on her disposition and nervous state. The condition had existed from childhood and was apparently growing much worse. There were two large œdematous swellings on the nape of the neck, one on either side and immediately below the occiput, evidently the result of intra-hydrocephalic pressure. One drop of Hed. h. Ø was placed on her tongue. Next morning clear fluid began dripping from the nostrils, a “cerebro-spinal rhinorrhœa” in fact. This continued three weeks, between twenty and thirty pocket-handkerchiefs being used in a day. Simultaneously the swellings began to diminish and had completely disappeared when the discharge ceased. Thirteen months later, when being measured for a hat, it was found that the size of the head was reduced to 25 inches, and no longer occasioned remark. When, later on, some symptoms of brain-pressure seemed to threaten a second dose of Hed. h. completely dispelled them. The disposition of the patient was completely changed; from being nervous, unhappy, and diffident, she became lively, cheerful, and active. In cases of rhinorrhœa cerebro-spinalis Hed. h. must be thought of. Hed. h. has been used as a sternutatory for “clearing the sight” from time out of mind, and Cooper tells me it has cured cases of cataract.
This is a number one medicine for Hydrocephalus. I have myself treated a case of a poor little boy whom parents could not afford to take him to hospital.
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