Monday, May 27, 2013

Anasuya Devi to Hans bugyal – Rudranath Trek 3

Rudranath Trail Sitemap

1: Chopta to Mandal walk
2: Mandal to Anasuya Devi
3: Anasuya Devi to Hans Bugyal
4: Hans Bugyal to Rudranath
5: Rudranath to Toli Bugyal
6: Toli Bugyal – Dumak – Kalpeshwar

We wake up in the beautiful morning at Anasuya Devi, and visit tea shop at 7am. Mr. Negi is no where around. Birds are singing all over. It rained at night and area looks extremely beautiful at this time. Mountains tops are shining golden with green hue with the rising sun and golden triangle at the top is visibly increasing by each minute. Time and again someone rings the bells of the temple and that is adding to the serenity and peace of this place. Children wearing sparkling clean school uniforms are seen chirping around the single avenue of this tiny hamlet.
A man tells us that Mr. Negi expected to be here at any time. We visit temples and then find Mr. Negi there. We walk around and return tea shop and find Mr. Negi firing up his wood stove. We wait for tea and then parothas will take some substantial time. We want to sneak out of Anasuya before Tari and his wife wake up but it appears that it is not going to happen.
Anasuya Devi
Woods end and Bugyals begin

We return to our room and as usual there is a “kohram” in next door. Mr. Tari is taking usual brunt. Kid comes in our room and wants to go out with us. We gladly take him to tea shop there he want to drink tea and is provided whereas his mother is strictly prohibiting him from having tea. Our parothas are being prepared.
Looking out for kid, his mother comes with sulking face and curses us upon seeing the kid drinking tea. We order another tea for her and now she says that Tari wants her to return back and he himself with kid will undertake the walk to Rudranath temple.
She adds, “But is so dangerous, I cannot allow him to go alone. I WILL go with him.”
It appears that she has Mars in Libra in seventh home. Mars in Libra is detrimental. A person interferes at home too much and even in the affairs those does not require interference.
Anasuya Devi
Path from Anasuya Devi to Naola Pass
Harsh suggests her to return and let the Tari undertake his pilgrimage, these things are done for once a lifetime and otherwise he will regret forever. She shouts that she never had any objection to what Tari or his mother do.
Then Tari shows up he drinks tea silently. We eat parothas and Mr. Nagi gives us the package of 20 parothas. As we say goodbye to Tari, he begs us to stop and wait for them too. We reason out with him to return.
I say, “You can always come back here alone to fill your oath. Pilgrimage should be undertaken with happiness and peace.”
Mrs. Tari is now looking at me with venomous eyes.
She shouts, “You can go and leave us alone but we are coming to Rudranath.”
Anasuya Devi
Views from the path
Our day’s walk begins at Anasuya temple. There is no chance about reaching Rudranath by the end of day and neither is it our intention to walk 20 kilometers and climb 10,000 feet in a day. It is a steep climb and the very look at the peak from the base seems scary.
We walk for several hours in the dense forests; our destination today is Hamsa Bugyal at the base of Naola Pass. Most people reach straight to Hamsa Bugyal from Ansuya temple in a day. As we are gaining height jungle is getting thin and stunted due to the stress of cold. Hours and hours passed and we are not anywhere near the bugyal.
Anasuya Devi
Views from the path
As firewood is still available so we stop at the waterfall to make tea and heat parothas for lunch. It is 2 PM. So far we haven’t seen anyone here on the way and trail is straightforward. This path is not much used as most pilgrims use the Sagar route to get to Rudarnath.
This other route from Sagar offers more amenities to pilgrims. That passes through Sagar, Pung Bugyal, Liti Bugyal, Panar Bugyal, Pitri Dhar etc. Then both routes converge at Panchganga Bugyal (very near Rudranath). This other route has a restaurant and tent hotel at almost each stop.
Anasuya Devi
Views from the path
We reach this Hamsa bugyal at 5 pm. The only shack where Swamiji lives is visible at far away at the slope on a ridge of bugyal. It is getting dark and clouded because Sun has gone behind the mountains long ago. Hope Swami Ramanand Das is still there to give us shelter. This is an extremely beautiful bugyal, what a perfect solitude and divine atmosphere to meditate. Below us a vast cover of green wooded slopes of Himalayas and above us are ice fields. Bugyal is full of symptoms that many animals graze here but probably they are all gone for the night.
As we get near the shack, we see a figure wearing white clothes. So we are lucky and someone is there. We are much tired and drag ourselves up to the shack and Baba Ji comes to greet us. He already made tea for us. It is 6 PM.
Anasuya Devi
Hamsa Bugyal
He asks us for the food, his kitchen is almost empty and he makes only dalia for travelers. We give him tea and sugar that we brought for him and he is very happy about it. We tell him to use parothas for supper but he tells us to save our food although there is a tent restaurant at Panchganga bugyal but if it rains they are unable to cook any food.
Night falls very fast. As we are relaxed, cold hits us hard and we wear our warm clothes and wonder in the bugyal to make use of most of the sunlight. The beauty of Hamsha Bugiyal mesmerizes us. Wild colorful flowers bloom everywhere. Wish we could halt here for a whole day.
Anasuya Devi
Near Naola Pass
We wonder about Tari and Company – probably they have returned or probably they will be coming. Hopefully not today, for they had to make some serious arrangements – hiring some porter, food for themselves, food for the kid etc. etc. Then ever angry fat lady walks very slowly. Other thing I have witness about her was that she always looks at her feet while walking. She never lifted her neck to see the surroundings. Even her neck is permanently bent with a point protruding out in the back of her neck at the permanent bend.
Anasuya Devi
I have witnessed that all intense daydreamers look below when they walk. This way they are permanently engaged in the cinema going on in their mind. Now their moods are always on the mercy of the episodes running inside their head. Unfortunately there are only bad movies goes on inside us.
Our mind does not record good things that are how our minds are designed. People who always look at their toes while walking are short sighted in the real life too. In real lives also they cannot look beyond their toes.
Anasuya Devi
Near Naola Pass
At 8PM it is intense cold and we prepare to sleep on the mud floor. Babaji provides us enough cushion and insulation. We are too tired and I find it difficult to sleep when I am too tired.
Now there is a surprise. We hear noises outside. It is Tari and Company. We go outside and see 2 mules in the darkness, and Mrs. Tari lying in the grass. Kid is still enjoying sitting on the other mule.
Tari offers water bottle to his beloved and she screams at him, “You son-of-bitch, leave me alone. I am not talking with you. After this yours hell trip is over I am going back to Canada and you go back to your MOTHER.”
Anasuya Devi
Hamsa Bugyal
She rises with difficulty from the ground because her legs are sour. She walks inside, comically and then she falls down. Tari try to give her hand but she shouts at him.
Now we are six people and a kid for Swamiji to take care, including the man with two mules. There is not enough bedding in the one room narrow shack. I and Harsh take just one bedding and quickly slide other bedding near Mrs. Tari and she falls down there next to us. Kid comes to us and wants to sleep with us. Horseman arranges his own rags those he brought with him as a part of saddles. Swamiji begins making dalia but we stop him. We still have 14 parothas left and fireplace is still warm, we place parothas near fire but only horseman eats. Woman refuses to eat and Tari wants to eat but woman is looking at him with toxic eyes. When lantern is put out we secretly pass 3 parothas to Tari and he eats quietly while laid in the bed.
We hear Mrs. Tari A-K-A Amandeep Kaur crying.
We decide to leave the parothas near the hearth so if she decides to eat at night. (In the morning 3 were missing)
We fall to sleep.
Nardostachys jatamansi (Spikenard)
It is a critically endangered rhizome-bearing medicinal plant, is restricted to specialized habitats in high altitudes of the Himalaya, ranging from 3000 to 5000 m asl. The plant is collected from natural habitats for local consumption and trade.
Musk Root, Indian Spikenard, Indian Nard
Latin Name: Nardostachys jatamansi DC. (Valerianaceae)
Sanskrit/Indian name: Jatamansi, Bhutajata, Tapasvini, Jatamansi, Bal-chad
Anasuya Devi
General information:
The therapeutic benefits of Musk Root have been documented in various Ayurvedic texts. The herb is recommended for combating stress and insomnia. It is also known to enhance memory and treat mental instability. Cardiotonic properties have also been attributed to Musk Root.
The oil has, since ancient times, been used as a perfume, as a medicine and in religious contexts, particularly in connection with historical Judaism.
The Bible contains several references to the spikenard, and it is used in Catholic iconography to represent Saint Joseph. With this meaning, Pope Francis has included the spikenard in his coat of arms.
Therapeutic constituents:
The oil of Musk Root contains dnardostachone, valeranone and jatamansone as the major ketonic sesquiterpenes. These components give the herb its central tranquilizer and sedative properties.
Key therapeutic benefits:
As a tranquilizer, sedative and central nervous system depressant, Musk Root is used to treat stress and nervine disorders. It is also known to treat irregular heart palpitations and as a remedy for high blood pressure.

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